Bauhaus-Universität Weimar

Modern design in jewellery and fans
Holme, Charles
Persistente ID:
F reIz-cb 
forms in dreamy or voluptuous attitude, sleeping amid the masses of 
their abundant hair, against a background of gold, or shell, or what- 
ever the material may be. Any womanly gesture suflices ; and, in 
truth, what more is needed to make a real work of art in the form 
of a brooch or a button F No conventional flowers, no complicated 
interlacements, nothing " decorative " in the bad sense of the word ; 
yet his Work is powerfully and delicately modern. M. Desbois" 
jewels are perfect pieces of sculpture. 
VICTOR PROUVE, the painter, has been influenced in a similar 
way, but, not being a regular sculptor, he is more complicated 
without being any more original on that account. Thcre is more 
4' composition " in his jewels than in those of M. Desbois, more real, 
more visible, intention. His Waistbelts, his brooches, äco, are 
admirably suited to the purpose for which they are intended, their 
modclling being full, supple, and keen. The jewels, executed with 
scrupulous care and irreproachable technique by M. Rivaud, are 
real Works of art. 
M. BECKER and M. Paul Richard, who are both working almost 
exclusively for M. Ferdinand Verger  F. V." is the trademark of 
the Hrm), incline to that type of jewellery which might be termed 
"sculptured." They are very conscientious artists, but in my 
opinion, at any rate, the originality there may bc within them has. 
not yet made itiself fully apparent. 
M. LOUIS BONNY'S jewels deserve special attention. Like 
M. Vever, M. Bonny shows a predilection for precious stones, 
which he has the art of using with rare originality. At the last 
salon of the Societe des Artistes Frangais he exhibited a series of 
jewels which attracted much attention, among them-in addition 
to a beautiful necklace of wild grape in enamel, diamonds, and 
emerald, in addition to various floral pendants and neck ornaments 
in enamel and diamonds-a curious diadem, representing cocks in 
gold and enamel fighting for possession of a superb topaz. This was 
a real tour dejbrce in the way of execution. Other beautiful things 
of his I know, particularly his plaque de cou of geraniums, with the 
leaves in diamonds, the flowers in rubies, the stems and buds in dark 
green enamel, the whole being at once rich and sober in colouring 
and most harmoniously and flexibly composed. 
M. JOE DESCOMPS is a sound artist, whose efforts, laudable as 
they may be, neverthcless lack boldness. He has imagination 
enough, but it looks as though he feared to give it rein. With a 
little less timidity M. Descomps would doubtless produce something 
more piquant and more fresh.


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